Kastelorizo, fish at its most classic best
Eleni Psychouli heads down to the Athens Riviera for NouPou and writes about Kastelorizo: a restaurant that brings the whole family together in its most festive gathering, with timeless fish delicacies and celebratory, creative dishes.
- 29/12/2025 15:32
In a country that prefers the new over the timeless, constantly searching for the latest arrivals, the prospect of a restaurant entering the realm of the classic is extremely rare. Even rarer is the much-coveted consistency in quality—the pleasure of rediscovering a dish you have loved over the years, always beautifully cooked, with the same care and the same high-quality ingredients. Since 1981, the Kastelorizo Group has achieved something truly unique in the history of Athens dining. To keep expanding, to survive in robust form, to listen closely to the developments of a new era and to the appetite of its audience. The secret lies behind a tireless and talented family that works discreetly, with customer satisfaction at its core. Many times, in one of their restaurants, you may find yourself having your order taken personally by Mr. Antonis Stavrou, the founder himself—the same man who goes to the market every week to secure the freshest, most glistening fish.
It had been a long time since I last visited the Kastelorizo of Varkiza, and I was moved to rediscover this earthy, understated luxury in the dining rooms, lit by thousands of Christmas lights in their festive warmth; in front, the magical little harbor with its fishing boats; on the horizon, the foaming winter sea—the Riviera in its most flattering guise. Many rooms, so you can choose the one that suits your mood, with your gaze sinking into the blue through the surrounding glass walls. Kastelorizo is the guarantee of seafood freshness, adapted to every appetite. The same space functions differently for each guest, adjusting to their budget while offering everyone the same sense of luxury. For the one who has come for an aperitif that speaks Greek—a classic ouzo in the sun with meze, airy taramasalata mousse, sardines filleted and grilled, and fried gavros—as well as for the one who has come for lobster and a special dinner.
In a country that prefers the new over the timeless, constantly searching for the latest arrivals, the prospect of a restaurant entering the realm of the classic is extremely rare. Even rarer is the much-coveted consistency in quality—the pleasure of rediscovering a dish you have loved over the years, always beautifully cooked, with the same care and the same high-quality ingredients. Since 1981, the Kastelorizo Group has achieved something truly unique in the history of Athens dining. To keep expanding, to survive in robust form, to listen closely to the developments of a new era and to the appetite of its audience. The secret lies behind a tireless and talented family that works discreetly, with customer satisfaction at its core. Many times, in one of their restaurants, you may find yourself having your order taken personally by Mr. Antonis Stavrou, the founder himself—the same man who goes to the market every week to secure the freshest, most glistening fish.
It had been a long time since I last visited the Kastelorizo of Varkiza, and I was moved to rediscover this earthy, understated luxury in the dining rooms, lit by thousands of Christmas lights in their festive warmth; in front, the magical little harbor with its fishing boats; on the horizon, the foaming winter sea—the Riviera in its most flattering guise. Many rooms, so you can choose the one that suits your mood, with your gaze sinking into the blue through the surrounding glass walls. Kastelorizo is the guarantee of seafood freshness, adapted to every appetite. The same space functions differently for each guest, adjusting to their budget while offering everyone the same sense of luxury. For the one who has come for an aperitif that speaks Greek—a classic ouzo in the sun with meze, airy taramasalata mousse, sardines filleted and grilled, and fried gavros—as well as for the one who has come for lobster and a special dinner.
The shrimp orzo will remind you of nothing you usually encounter on the city’s tables. On your palate flows an old memory from your grandmother’s kitchen and from unfiltered Greece. Aroma of olive oil, without unnecessary butter or stocks, a light, gently bound texture, savoriness from vegetables and fresh herbs, orzo cooked to the ideal al dente. The aromatic risotto with ginger and kaffir lime dares to take tradition one step further into Today, yet the result movingly brings you back to your mother’s kitchen: perfectly cooked rice that absorbs these foreign borrowings to give you absolute Greekness from the fisherman’s kitchen. Gavriil Kouvaras, at the helm of the kitchen, is a young chef who uses the techniques of his generation to serve tradition properly. He is not interested in projecting his own point of view, but in creating emotion for you.
Because all the delicious things we have inherited will freeze in the time of oblivion if someone does not translate them into contemporary language and breathe new life into them. Equally excellent are the linguine with fresh tomato and shrimp sauce—a pasta dish that borrows nothing from foreign cuisines to express its flavor. Yet the restaurant is not only about the food. It is a complete experience of care that ensures you an evening worth having. And at Kastelorizo you will feel like royalty, returning to another era. Old-school service, with uniform and perfect balance. Plates are changed constantly, your glass is always full, and Mr. Soulis Balaouras, head of the dining room for 22 years, will make you feel like a member of the family, with elegance and grace. Because the old-style caretaker is different—and we have now forgotten that.
For the grand holiday feasts, Kastelorizo will cook turkey with smoked eggplant purée, wild boar shank with Naxos potatoes, risotto with young rooster and wild mushrooms, orzo with forest mushrooms and Cretan graviera, and other seasonal delights in the spirit of the days. Kastelorizo, however, is also the most affirmative answer for those who avoid meat and for anyone craving something other than oven-roasted pork in between festive meals. For all of us, in other words.